We've had a number of requests (well one, actually) for more of our Roundtable series, and after much foot dragging, slacking and general malaise, we managed to slap something together. The truth is we owe this to the four riggers who participated; Rob Friedrich, Chuck Simmons, Mike Robinson, and David Chard. These guys are all superb, and you could do well by contacting any of them for your rigging needs. We have provided their contact information at the end of the article. Enjoy.

In the last couple of years, what have been some of the biggest rigging innovations, in terms of products?

RF
I like the Toolova Shootit Shroud Cutter; It's a tool for cutting rigging away in case of an emergency like dismasting. http://www.euromarinetrading.com/Products/Toolova/Toolova.htm

CS
Shackles have changed a lot. The looped shackles don't even look like traditional shackles. Plus, Sparcraft's patent ran out which allowed Wichard and others to make copies and give Sparcraft some competition.

MR
Everything is getting lighter, stronger, and ultimately because there are no economies of scale, more expensive.

DC
I feel that the greatest advances are in the textiles we are using. the possibilities are endless. The marine market is so small in the grand scheme of things, that we get our textiles mostly from the tire industry. They are the ones doing the research and we get to grab the good stuff

For sheets, how have lines improved in terms of stretch, durability, cost, and ease of use?

RF
Cordage evolves very slowly, nothing much going on here except the occasional reference to spider silk and nano or bucky-tubes. Every year or so a new generation of fiber makes it's way into the sailing industry. Today, certain manufactures are boasting no stretch lines and just how can you improve on no stretch? There is very little left to do besides controlling your sails with gravitons. We have constantly searched for the lighter stronger fibers since cordage was invented, we will continue until the end of time.

I like using Spectra for sheets. New England Ropes has a very nice product for sheets in Endura Braid. Endura Braid covers the bases regarding stretch, durability and handling of sheets though I am going to miss their Spec-Set II. http://www.neropes.com/pleasure_marine/default.htm Click on ‘New Products’.

Maffioli has the Swiftcord that is making its way around; it would be nice to see it in larger diameter one day. Check out their other stuff; http://www.gottifredimaffioli.com/base/prodotti/ukprodotti.html

CS
My opinion is that we use lines that are too strong in a lot of cases that don't even get into their performance range. Dyneema being pre stretched as it is being made is a great improvement. Cost has remained fairly stable.

MR
Break it into three categories. Main sheets with multiple parts and relatively low loads which are trimmed almost continuously need to be easy to handle, run through blocks easily and light weight. Depending on the size of boat, my choices would be Regatta Braid into which I run a Amsteel core, or YaleLight/Samson UltraLite. I particularly like the Regatta Braid, it’s the nicest on the hands and is supple enough to run through the purchase easily. A little heavy though. I retrofitted a J105 main sheet with Samson UltraLite with a Amsteel core and it worked pretty well.

For jib sheets I tend to use the Regatta/Amsteel core solution. Soft enough and easy on the hands but with the low stretch core it has none of the stretch characteristics that can get annoying.

There is only one solution for spin sheets. Spec12 triple tapered into two diameters of UltraLite or YaleLite. For sails up to about 1000 sq ft, I use 1/8” Amsteel spliced into ¼” UltraLite then into 3/8” UltraLite. The result is very strong, very light and won’t stretch. We put a set on an S2 9.1 and with the pole 12” from the forestay, in the gusts it just didn’t move. It is so light that the sail will fill in almost anything. Since I’m such a nut about weight, I developed an attachment fitting kind of like a brummel hook but with a larger opening. Going to attach a photo showing it. Bigger spinnakers can go to 3/16” or larger Amsteel.

DC
Ropes like New England Endura braid is one of the latest incarnations of dyneema. It runs at about 20% more breakink strengh than is spectra predessesor, and only costs about 5% more. We made a set of running rigging for a swan 48 for last years Bermuda race. We used a 12mm endura braid spin guy in replacement for a 14mm vectran that we would use in heavy weather. We ran the whole race with the 12mm.

How about for halyards?

RF
Halyards? Well, Main and Jib go with 100% Vectran, or maybe PBO if your program is into high maintenance and is well backed. Keep in mind that there’s a point where the use of certain high tech fibers becomes ridiculous unless you are involved in the highest degree of competition. With that in mind I keep thinking of the guy interviewed for winning a particular regatta mentioning that he used PBO halyards, well so did the guy who came in 10th while the guy in second used Vectran. Key here, go the right way around the course.

Remember that there are types of cordage marketed not for the intent of certain uses, but for a certain 'user' profiles, it’s called hype.

A good reference to cordage is an article in August 2000 Seahorse Magazine. To give you an idea on how fast the cordage industry moves, this article is still accurate almost three years later. http://www.sailingsource.com/seahorse/2000-August/noproblem.htm

CS
Whatever an owner can do to lighten up weight aloft he should try. Tapered spinnaker halyards and Vectran jib with a composite (dual blend) main halyard is a good set-up.

MR
Depending on boat size and loads, either Amsteel spliced into a tail or Vectran with a tail. Just figure that you replace the wire portion of the old halyards with a material that is just as strong, doesn’t stretch, and won’t scrape the flesh off your hands when you’re jumping a hoist. Kind of a no brainer. I don’t like the idea of stripping the covers off of premade line since the core is usually not coated for UV and tends to be pretty “fuzzy” and the individual fibers tend to catch on everything.

DC
In my mind the jury is still out on PBO. It is still not for the average joe phrf, or even any program except at the highest level.

Were there any rigging innovations from the AC that caught your attention?

RF
Nope, but I must say that was one hell of a hula that gal wore to the prom.

CS
The pole splint used by Oracle was awesome. Now all of the big mast makers (Hall) offer them. In '95 when I sailed with Stars & Stripes we used "Y" sheets for the A-sails. We started making them for other boats as well, Melges 24 and the J-120's. For the Melges we developed a polypro cover so the sheet wouldn't absorb any water, pretty important when it gets light.

MR
For my customer base, that is pretty irrevelant.

DC
Four speed winches!

Let’s say Joe Six Pack has a 30’ PHRF boat. What are some of the things he can do to improve his rigging? Start with sheets, shackles and halyards.

RF
You wanna race and don’t have the access to a nice used Mumm 30? First thing to do is get rid of all the non-essential parts and pieces on your boat. Yes, that means the folding bike tied to your shrouds and the windlass on your foredeck. Get rid of your all chain anchor rode; replace it with lightweight cordage that doesn’t absorb water and an aluminum anchor. Take your mast down, strip it down to the bare minimum including lights, wiring, antennas and such. Replace halyards with all the latest, 100% fibers, and no blends. Replace 1x19 shrouds and stays with rod rigging. Wire checks and or runners replace with cordage. Too many winches? You should have no more than 4 on your boat. Wood handrails? Teak? Get rid of it. Headliner? You don’t need no stinking headliner, take it down. What are those floorboards? Are they wood sponges filled with water? Replace them with molded vacuum bagged carbon ones. Am I going too far? Well, you know that your foredeck hatch and ports could be replaced with something lighter? How about that big ass steering quadrant? Yep, that too. Oh, and don’t forget to re-bed your stanchions, the fasteners you have are corroded in the deck.

CS
First I'm going to go with maintenance; wash all the sheets and halyards in a washing machine with soap and fabric softener. Check all of the shackles for cracks and wear, then lubricate. Inspect lines for chafe. If it's time to replace, go for tapered sheets and halyards and upgrade to better shackles if it is time.

MR
First, light weight spin sheets. Enable you to sail faster, deeper in almost any conditions. Eliminate the weight of shackles at the clews. Secondly, composite halyards reduce weight aloft, strong, low stretch and easy to use. Easily adjustable baby stay if there and back stay cascaded using Dyneema with XLS tail. Adjustable from both sides forward of driver, keeps weight high and concentrated. I would try to get all sail controls run to the weather cabin top and have most of them be double ended so that everything can be adjusted from the weather side and with all crew weight concentrated in a relatively small space.

DC
Downsize to 8mm Dyneema spin sheets, remove some cover and splice a long loop to attach shackles. If he still has some money to burn we can replace some shackles with Tylaskas new spool shackles or brand x soft shackle. As far as halyards go joe six pack should be using a 3 halyard system. center for topper and 2 wing halyards. Strip covers off all three.

How about cost for the above modifications?

RF
Pour yourself a stiff one, get comfortable in your favorite chair and give me a call, we'll talk.

CS
The first part is cheap, just some time. If you need to replace, about $140.00 per tapered halyard without shackles, $185.00 jib halyard, $175.00 main halyard, $100.00 topping lift, $200.00 spinnaker sheets, and $200.00 for jib sheets. All of these prices are ballpark prices, it really depends on how high or low tech you want to go.

MR
For a 30’ boat look at $100+ for spin sheet, around that for halyards so if you have 2 jib, 2 spin, 1 main and 2 spin sheets you’re looking at $700. Should also redo the twings to keep them light but that’s not a big deal. If you get really serious and start re routing things and double ending them, it can get a bit pricy but we think nothing about buying a new sail or two and then trimming them with the same old shitty polyester double braid.

DC
About $300 for spin sheets tapered and spliced

Are there particular mistakes that you see people do when it comes to rigging on their boats?

RF
The biggest mistake I see on boats is lack of maintenance. Everything on your boat and I mean EVERYTHING that moves, pivots, rolls, turns or whatever needs to be broken down and serviced regularly.

CS
The biggest thing I see is lack of maintenance on the rigging. Standing rigging should be stainless steel wool or bronze wooled twice a year. This brings out the properties of the stainless and also helps find broken strands. Lube stuff and wash running rigging. I also see a lot of improperly tuned masts.

MR
Un-Fair leads. Bad choices in cordage. Not taking advantage of new techniques, products. Not replacing running rigging in time. Not considering what advantages of being able to easily trim sails with well designed tackles and lines. Incredibly poorly installed furling systems. I spend a great deal of my time fixing other peoples mistakes. Most people don’t take very good care of their running rigging. I think that it should be removed every season and washed with a little fabric softener, carefully inspected and re-whipped where necessary. A little care will make them last years longer.

DC
Rope too big in diameter.

Can you explain what EquipLite shackles are and what their applications are?

RF
A different mousetrap which was designed to replace all shackles, it’s simply an aluminum bobbin with a strop of Spectra and some Velcro. The only Equiplite product that currently has my attention is their 2:1 Headboard Shackle otherwise you can tie a knot. There are several manufactures developing similar products, but until you can show me one that can be used with one hand and release under load, keep trying. Molded fibrous shackles anyone? Keep your eyes open cuz there coming.

CS
Spectra loops around double thimbles. Good for jib sheets because they won't shake off, but I'm still old school and like to use Presslocks or J-locks. They are easier to use and smaller when passing by the shrouds in a tack.

MR
A very clever, if a bit pricy method of attaching lines to sails. Use wherever you want to replace a shackle with something lighter. Sort of like a heavy version of my SpinneyClip.

DC
EquipLite shackles are “soft” or rope loop attachments. They are great for jib sheets to help reduce wear on the mast.

Of your years of experience in the industry, who makes the best gear?

RF
There are many answers to this question. There are so many talented people in our industry and most of them are trying to be the best they can be. Nobody really stands alone in one category or another. It would be easier to pick the worst in which I’m not going there. I like Lewmar Winches and Hatches, Navtec Rod Rigging and Hydraulics, Harken Blocks, Spinlock Rope Clutches and Tiller Extensions, Samson’s Single Braid Lines, New England Ropes V-100 and Endura Braid, Gottifredi Maffioli Swiftcord, Antal Batten Car Systems, Frederiksen Cars and HL Swivels, Ronstan Calibrated Turnbuckles, Tuff Luff, Tylaska Shackles, Facnor Code 0 Furlers and Wichard Mechanical Adjusters and safety harnesses.

One thing that strikes me as being most important when it comes to manufacturers is the level of service provided. You can have the best equipment in the world but have a complete dickhead representing it. This is the case for a few choice product lines that I do not care to discuss. When you call on a manufacturer or their representative you are the customer and you are the reason why they have a job. You should be greeted with enthusiasm and eagerness to help in anyway. You deserve the best and not some punk-ass knob washer with his shorts wadded up his butt. After all, you wouldn’t go back to a restaurant with piss poor service and attitude again and again, would you? Well, maybe in LA.

CS
What a loaded question! Ronstan and Harken standout, Lewmar as well.

MR
In cordage, Samson, Yale and New England depending on application. Blocks and the like it’s Harken, for standing rigging there’s nothing, and I mean nothing, like StaLok. I love LanoCote and TefGel. My Portasol butane hot knife gets a lot of use.

DC
Harken.

The trend seems to be towards lighter and more high tech gear. Is much of it becoming cost prohibitive?

RF
Cost prohibitive is a fact of life not just in our sport but in everything we do otherwise we'd all be tooling around in the new McLaren MP4/18 as well as the latest Maxi with full-on professional crew, right? In our game as in life there's a restriction to how much lighter, faster and stronger we can go and it all depends on the size of our wallet. Like it or not, some guys wallets are bigger than others and that's just the way it is. If everyone were the same, there'd be a long line somewhere. I definitely suggest going as far as your wallet can carry you towards the lighter and more high-tech gear, it drives the industry to higher levels. Please keep in mind the most important thing in racing... go the right way. So many people spend so much money just to go the wrong way.

CS
I don't think so. Things may have to be turned over more because there is less material so chafe eats up more of it percentage wise. But since it is smaller it may completely miss that chafing object.

MR
Some of it is expensive, but when you put it in context of the cost of sails and other equipment and consider the benefits derived, it’s really not a big deal. Consider the cost of replacing a halyard that has seen better days. A hundred bucks or so. So you don’t do it. Then it breaks, and of course it’s internal. So now you have to go aloft and try to fish the replacement down, or hire someone else to do it.

DC
I have just finshed rigging two new Atlantic Class (30’ like shields). My quote was about 3% higher using all Harken Carbo in place of the classic Bullet/ Midrange blocks. Not a real significant difference in the grand scheme of things

What product or service constitutes your biggest market?

RF
Our largest selling product at Florida Rigging & Hydraulics is Lewmar Marine Hardware We are their largest Master Parts Distributor. We service and sell all sorts of rigging and hydraulic components to customers racing world wide as well as to world class cruisers.

CS
For the last few weeks it has all been mast tuning and related service work getting boats ready for the Ensenada race. In the next few weeks it'll be all Sabots; rebuilding, re rigging, and making a few brand new. We are also waiting for our summer spar order to arrive from the UK within the next few weeks. Then it will be masts for 505's, Daysailors, Comets, and Etchells.

MR
Spinnaker Sheets, other running rigging.

DC
Right now rope sales, standing rigging, and road labor. Service is the key word. You have to deliver. My advertising should read “on time, on budget, every time”

If people want to get information from you, how do they contact you?

RF
Rob Friedrich, Sales Guy, Florida Rigging & Hydraulics, Inc. USA (561)863-7444 (800)718-1649 or Please visit our website: http://www.rigginghydraulics.com

CS
Chuck Simmons at Proctor Masts & Rigging
949-673-7817 phone
949-673-7884 fax
www.proctormasts.com
proctormasts@earthlink.net
We are located at 413 29th Street Newport Beach, CA 92663

MR
Mike Robinson
mike@riggersworld.com

DC
David Chard
david@boatlocker.com
203-259-7808